FARMS, TRIPS AND INVENTIONS

February was a great month for looking forward. I attended a meeting for the organization of a new Farm Alliance in Rockland County. There were 400 farms here in 1950 and only 5 now. The Farm Alliance is going to work toward bringing more farms to the County and that will mean, hopefully, more local foods. If you see any land that could be a nice farm, get in touch. Stay tuned.

Executive Chef Lucas

I took a trip to the Electrolux headquarters in Fort Lauderdale, Florida. They don't just make vacuum cleaners! I'm going to go to the Chicago Home Show in April to do a chef demonstration on the ultra amazing and futuristic looking Meltoni Podium. I'll be posting photos later.The stove pictured here is one of the older Meltoni ovens that are custom built to chefs' specifications.

Meltoni Stove

My old friend and teacher, Noedrup Rongae was in New York to exhibit his thangka paintings. I provided a small reception for the event and created some interesting new appetizers. Here is the menu:

Lox w/Yogurt Mint Sauce

Barley BiscottiSteak w/Mustard Caper Butter

Fig & Cashew Balls (recipe follows)

Dates Stuffed w/Goat Cheese and Crushed Almonds

Biscotti w/ Barley Flour, Rose, Anise Seeds & Pistachios - chocolate dipped

Smoked Salmon on Pumpernickel w/Yogurt Mint Sauce

Roasted Red Pepper Tapenade on Zatar Roasted Naan Strips w/ Pimento Olives

Mushroom Pate (fooled everyone who thought it was liver)

Roast Beef Slices w/Pickle & Cocktail Onion on Crostini w/Mustard-Caper Butter

Spicy Dried Chickpeas & Pakora Crisps

Pineapple chunks, Carrot Sticks, Purple Grapes

Fig and Cashew Balls

Fig and Cashew Balls Recipe:
a package circle of dried figs, cut off the stems and cut into small pieces
3/4 cups roasted cashew nuts
2-3 ounces marzipan
1/4 cup or more Marsala
cocoa powder

Put everything except the cocoa powder into a food processor and pulse until completely pureed. You may need to scrape it down from time to time. The mixture should be fairly thick but pliable. Add more Marsala if you like. Take out of the processor with a spatula and put into a bowl. Refrigerate about half an hour. Sift the cocoa powder into a bowl. Then take out the fig mixture and roll into balls about one inch in diameter. Roll the balls in the cocoa powder. Serve immediately or place in a container and refrigerate. I haven't tested how long they will last in the fridge but probably no longer than three days. You could also make these three days in advance.

MAKE SURE YOU'RE NOT IN HOT WATER

This article from the New York Times cautions not to drink hot water directly from the tap.

http://www.nytimes.com/2008/01/29/health/29real.html?em&ex=1201842000&en=ab43b4a602dc318b&ei=5087%0A

VISIT TO THE ROGOWSKI FARM IN PINE ISLAND, NY







I’d wanted to visit the Rogowski Farm for a long time now and yesterday, Saturday the 19th, was the day. A cold and breezy day in mid-winter might not sound like the best day to visit a farm but then again, why not.





Another chef I’d met at the Rockland Better School Food Coalition conference in September, Cathy Vogt (www.anaturalchef.com), was teaching one of her monthly classes in their kitchen facility; I thought I’d catch up with her. She was teaching some simple natural foods, for people who wanted to change their diets, using Miso, Tamari, Ginger, Beans and Squashes and whatever was growing in the Farm’s winter tunnels. I tasted some of the mixed bean stew and red quinoa, a shiitake-kombu broth, and an orange and ginger squash stew, all of which revived me from the hour long drive. It was a nice ride through the mountains and through the open fields. My eyes caught the occasional cows lolling in mud and some sculptural rusted out farm equipment. All surrounded by the big sky. I got to buy some wintered root vegetables and greet the Rogowski’s. (www.rogowskifarm.net)

This is how you get there: Take 287, the New York State Thruway north, to 17N (Sloatsburg). Go through Tuxedo until you see the sign for 17A to Greenwood Lake, 8 miles - then a bear left at the end of town, another 6 miles through the ups and downs of the mountain pass road and you are in Warwick. When you reach the end you will be at Route 94 having to decide to go right, into Warwick village, or left. Go left and keep going until you get to a light at CR-1; there is an arrow pointing to Pine Island. Take a right and keep going over hill and dale -- until you come to Pine Island. There you will see a place on the left called the Jolly Onion Inn. Take a left on to Glenwood Road and drive about another 3 or 4 miles - on the right is Rogowski Farm. In front are some rustic signs. If you pass it, just turn around and come back. I forgot to take a picture of the front -next time. If you look on Mapquest you will find an entirely different way to get there; it's up to you.

If you stayed on Rt. 94 you would come to Jonathan White’s Bobolink Dairy after a few turns here and there, but that is for another day.

Pictures posted here are of Carol Vogt at the end of her class, also some arrangements of food for sale in the Rogowski’s barn.

Here is one of my healthy miso recipes:

MISO-PEANUT SAUCE TO POUR OVER HOT STEAMED VEGETABLES
(serves 2 or more)

Sauce:
1 Tablespoon Light Miso Paste 1 Tablespoon Peanut Butter (just peanuts, please) or Sesame Tahini
1 clove Garlic, smashed and pureed
Water
1 Tablespoon Tamari, or to taste
1 Tablespoon Yuzu or Lemon Juice, or to taste
1 teaspoon Roasted Sesame Oil a dash of Hot Chili Oil
optional Garnish: Szechuan Peppercorns, ground Cilantro or Parsley

Mix together the Miso and Peanut Butter. Add enough water to liquefy to the consistence of heavy cream. Beat well with a whisk to break up any clumps of the paste. Beat in the garlic clove, then the rest of the ingredients. Stir well.

VEGETABLES:
3 small or 2 large Sweet Potatoes (about 1-inch in diameter, or if larger make vertical slices first)
Peel the entire potato, if you like, or peel in irregular stripes. Use a turn and slant diagonal cut to make chunks.

1 Delicata squash, seeded, cut in rings about 3/8-/12-inch thick OR - any vegetables of your choice.
Steam until fork tender. 1 red or orange bell pepper, seeded, cut in small to medium dice

ASSEMBLE: Put the bell peppers in a serving bowl. Add the steamed vegetables when they are done. Pour the sauce over and toss lightly to coat all the vegetables.

Garnish if you like with Roasted and Ground Szechuan Peppercorns, and Cilantro or Parsley.
Serve while warm but also tastes fine room temperature or chilled.

PHOTOS OF MOMO MAKING
If you started at the top with the basic ingredients you can follow the steps. Excuse photo of actual Momo. I have to do something about that. Will make some more soon and re-shoot. Must have gotten too hungry to take a proper picture!

TIBETAN STYLE MOMO'S OR DUMPLINGS
These are so incredibly good and you can't eat just one. The first time I ever ate a MoMo an entire family of Tibetans sat and waited to see what was going to happen. For appetizers you can make them smaller and put one onto a ceramic spoon. I'll post some photographs soon. By the way, you will need a steamer to make these. You can get a large bamboo steamer or an aluminum one with two tiers; they're made in Thailand.

1 pound ground beef or chicken
3 finely chopped scallions
1 tablespoon of freshly ground ginger
1 tablespoon chopped fresh garlic
1-2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon of sesame oil, optional
pinch of salt, optional
3 tablespoons cold water

2-3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
warm, not hot, Water

For Vegetarian MoMo’s: make a mixture of potato, finely chopped cabbage, garlic, ginger, scallions, grated carrots, or whatever you like, and put that into the dumpling instead of the meat. Use the potatoes to hold the mixture together.

To make the dough:
Put the flour into a medium sized bowl and gradually add the water while mixing. Keep adding water until the flour holds together without making strands. About ½ cup of water should be enough depending upon your climate and if the flour is dry. Just add the water gradually. Knead the dough until it is smooth and feels like your earlobe. Cover and let stand about 30 minutes at room temperature.

Pinch off about a handful of the dough and pull into a snake shape. Cut off about one-inch pieces. Roll each piece out to about 4-inch rounds. Alternately, roll out the dough as thin as possible on a well-floured surface and cut into rounds. If you want to make appetizer-sized momos, roll out to about 2-3 inch rounds and use less filling.

Filling:
Mix the meat, scallions, ginger, garlic and soy sauce together until everything is well-blended. Use your hands. Then mix in a small amount - about 3 tablespoons - of water. Let stand covered about 15 minutes.

Start boiling water in the steamer.

Put a teaspoon or more of the mixture on each round and fold over into a half-moon shape, pinch edges tightly to seal. Or, for the more classic MoMo, pull the dough up over the filling and using a turn-and-pinch motion go all around, leaving a hole in the center. This takes some practice and best to actually see someone do it. The half-moon shape is easier to do initially.

Smear oil on the inside of the steamer, or line with Napa cabbage leaves. Put MoMo’s in the steamer; make sure they don’t touch each other. Cover and steam for 15-20 minutes or until the steam feels sticky to your palm.

Serve with chilli sauce and a dipping sauce mixture of soy sauce, rice vinegar and roasted sesame oil, to taste.


** 1 pound of meat makes 25 MoMo’s (or Momos).
If you are in a rush, and who isn’t when making MoMo’s, you can proceed to make these without the waiting times indicated. You can also eliminate the ginger and garlic or anything else..

CHICKEN LOLLIPOPS

Make these appetizers for a very down home sort of party or something more upscale by putting gold tips of foil on the bone ends. The funny thing is they don't taste like chicken. Go figure. You can freeze them prior to cooking and take them out to bake whenever you like. 
 

Chicken Wings , wing tip cut off and the wing cut into 2 pieces

Honey

Dijon Mustard

Pomegranate Molasses, optional

Breadcrumbs

Preheat oven 450 degrees.

Create the Wings:

Loosen the flesh at the top of the bone by the knuckle, then push the flesh

down the bone, sort of inside out, like turning your socks. With the wing part that

has two bones, do the same thing but remove - pull out - the smaller bone.

Clean the bone that is exposed. Either chop off the ‘knuckle’ part or clean it well. I chose to chop it off which leaves a rough broken edge that can be covered with aluminum foil.

In a small bowl, combine the Honey and Dijon Mustard together in a quantity that pleases you; either equal or favoring the sweet or spicy. Prepare another bowl with plain breadcrumbs. Dip the meat part of the wing into the Honey-Mustard mixture then into the breadcrumbs. Place on an ungreased baking sheet. Bake 20-25 minutes or until golden and crispy. You can also bake slightly less and then heat up at the time of service.

Make some additional Honey-Mustard sauce as a dip - not necessary but nice.

ALLEZ CUISINE!

That's the cry that supercilious fellow makes at the start of
'Iron Chef', just in case you missed it. I put it here as I post
a recent menu for a New Year's Eve party by Cooking on the
River. Story follows. There are no photographs, alas, since I
was so busy I didn't have a moment to take any.

NEW YEAR'S EVE DINNER
White Sturgeon Caviar with Potato Pancakes, Crème Fraiche
Sea Scallops wrapped in Prosciutto
Stuffed Mushrooms
Beef Dumplings with Dipping Sauce and Chili Dab
Crab Cakes with Tartar Sauce
Honey Mustard Chicken Lollipops
Wasabi Sesame Tuna Tartare on Crispy Wontons
Corn Panna Cotta with Salmon Roe and Radish Sprouts
Dogs in a Duvet with Deli Mustard
Mac n’Cheese Cups

Butter Poached Baby Lobster Tails
with Artichoke Hearts and Green Pea Puree, Crispy Shrimp
and Pesto Sauce

Rack of Lamb with Rosemary and Garlic with Lamb Jus
Potato and Mushroom Gratin
Swiss Chard

Mizuna and Baby Lettuces with
Medoc Poached Ficelle Pear stuffed with a Fig and Hazelnut paste;
Assorted Sheep, Goat and Cow’s Milk Cheeses; and Brioche Batons

Assorted Breads

A Spot of Hot Chocolate
Chocolate Truffles
Medley of Cookies
Frozen Chocolate and Raspberries

Pomegranate Champagne Punch
Hot Spiced Cider
Assorted Wines and Champagne

Of course that is much too much food but somehow most of it got eaten and there was enough left over to have some close relatives come by the next day. According to the client everyone had their favorite dish and each one was mentioned. More later....

ENSCONCED IN SCONES

This Christmas morning I created a brunch for a family in northern New Jersey. The lady of the house loves scones so I made lots of them. Scones fare best just-out-of-the-oven but if wrapped loosely in aluminum foil they can be warmed up in a 200 degree oven for about 5-10 minutes. Serve with butter, clotted cream or lightly whipped heavy cream, fruit jams and jellies.
If you scroll down a bit you can see the photographs of the fresh scones.
For the curious, here is the rest of the menu:
Flat Italian Green Beans with Roasted Garlic and Parsley
Green Salad with (tons of things) dried cranberries, fennel, mesclun mix, baby spinach, sugared walnuts, goat cheese, grated carrots, cubed beets
Salad dressings of Sun-dried Tomatoes and a Basic Vinaigrette
Orrichette (little ears) Pasta Salad with roasted fennel, cannellini beans, roasted artichokes, and lots of parmigiano cheese and extra-virgin olive oil
Antipasto of dried meats and cheeses
Filet Mignon with Horseradish Sauce
And I created fresh Omelets, to order, for each person to choose from an assortment of : bacon, sausage, roasted red peppers, sauteed spinach, cheddar cheese, mozzarella cheese, caramelized onions, sauteed mushroom medley
People brought lots of desserts.

PICTURES OF SCONES

Blueberry Scones

Banana Scones

Oat and Fruit Scones

COOKING AND DRIVING

Not only a chef but a driver in winter weather! Check out the article below and get some tips on driving in bad weather. From Fuel to Food.....

http://www.thejournalnews.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20071212/NEWS03/712120379

POTATO PANCAKES (LATKES) EXTRAVAGANZA








I make these every year for people who celebrate Chanukah and even for those who don't. Once a year I offer them for the special price of $120 for 100. No delivery - you pick up. Then it's one oily day for me. I fry'em then freeze'em right away. They stay fresh for about 3 months, or more if they are vacuum packed. All you have to do is heat them frozen in a hot - 450 degree oven - for about 5-8 minutes and you'll think you just made them - that is - your guests will think so.

They taste great just as they are with a little salt - OR - with applesauce, sour cream, caramelized onions, caviar, smoked salmon...whatever you want.

Here is the recipe, in case you want to make your own (!)

POTATO PANCAKES RECIPE - LATKES
makes about 60

5-7 pounds potatoes, combine Russets and Eastern
1 large Vidalia or yellow onion
3 large eggs
½ cup cake matzo meal, matzo meal, or unbleached all-purpose flour
¼ potato starch
Salt
2 bottles grapeseed oil and/or peanut oil or canola oil

Prepare a cookie or sheet pan to drain the pancakes after they are fried, with a couple of layers of newspapers and/or paper towels.

Wash and peel the potatoes taking out the ‘eyes’. You can leave the peel on, if you like. I don’t. Cut the potatoes small enough to fit into the feeding tube of your processor. Reserve the peeled potatoes in a bowl of cold water.

Process the onions and potatoes with the grater blade. First put in a bit of onion through then the potatoes until the processor bowl is filled; remove to a bowl. Continue grating with the rest of the onions and potatoes.

After everything is grated remove the grater blade and put in the rotator blade for fine processing. Put the grated potato/onion mixture back into the bowl of the processor and pulse to fine grate. Put the fine grated potatoes into a fine sieve over a bowl. Drain and push out as much liquid as possible. Reserve the potato starch at the bottom and discard the rest of the liquid.

Mix in the matzo meal, additional potato starch, eggs and salt. Combine very well. Let rest about 30 minutes.

Pour the oil into two frying pans to at least 1-inch. It is important to submerge the pancake rather than using a little oil, use a lot. Contrary to ordinary logic (if there is such a thing) the more oil the pancakes cook in the less oil goes into the pancake itself. Strange but true.  Use either all grapeseed oil or a combination of peanut or canola and grapeseed oil. Heat the oil to very hot. Test by putting a small amount of the potato mixture into each pan. When it sizzles madly, it’s hot enough to start making the pancakes.

Using a tablespoon, put a heaping tablespoon of the potato mixture into the pans. Smooth it out gently but don’t press down. The pancakes should be about 2” x 3”, roughly. Turn after you see the edges turn golden. When golden on both sides, take out and drain on the prepared draining sheets. Sprinkle some salt on the hot pancakes.

Either serve right away with selected condiments: sour cream, yogurt, sugar, or applesauce. Some people like them sweet, others not. If made a bit smaller they make a good base for serving smoked salmon and caviar.

To freeze: once a batch is drained and cooled put them directly on to another baking or cookie sheet and put into the freezer. Once they are frozen put them into plastic bags or use your vacuum sealer to store.
To reheat: preheat oven to 450 degrees, put the desired quantity of pancakes on a baking sheet and heat about 7-8 minutes.

THANKSGIVING 2007
Here is my personal menu from this past Thanksgiving. It's followed by recipes for some of the foods. I'll post some photos later in the week.

Sun-dried Tomato Tapenade
Smoked Salmon Mousse
Herb marinated Olives
Homemade Olive Oil Crackers
•
Fresh Pea Potage
•
Ballotine of Turkey
with sausage, chestnut, sage, pistachio stuffing
•
Puree of Sweet Potatoes with coconut & maple syrup
Gratin of Potatoes & Mushrooms with Blue cheese
Roasted Root Vegetables
(carrots, celery root, rutabaga, chioggia beets)
with thyme & rosemary
Brussels Sprouts with Roasted Garlic Butter
Fresh Berry Gelatin
Cornbread with Cranberries & Walnuts
Cranberry Sauce a la Maldovan
•
French Apple Tart
Pumpkin Pie
Ice Cream, Whipped Cream
Fresh Fruits
•
Assorted Wines & Bubblies
Apple Cider
Seltzer
•
Tea, coffee

BERRY GELATIN

Not your mother's Jello...
3 cups water
4 bags of assorted herbal teas containing fruit flavors
1/3 cup honey or agave nectar
1/3 cup fruit syrup
(from jarred fruit such as black currants in syrup)
1 ounce unflavored gelatin
½ pint blueberries
½ pint raspberries
1 - 4 cup mold

Boil 3 cups of water. Put all the teabags in a bowl and pour the water over them. Steep for 20 minutes. Remove the bags. Stir in the honey or agave nectar, fruit syrup. Pour ½ cup water in a small bowl and stir in the gelatin and leave to thicken. Add the gelatin to the tea and stir to blend. Pick over the berries and rinse. Rinse a 4-cup mold and place it in a large bowl with ice cubes. Ladle about ½ cup of the tea into the mold and let it set. Scatter some berries. Ladle another cup of tea and let it set. Keep layering until all the tea and berries are used up. Remove from the ice and cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Leave until sets - about 2 hours or overnight. Unmold by lowering the bottom into hot water and let stand 1-2 minutes than invert onto a platter. Decorate with fresh berries or mint leaves.

MAPLE PECAN OR WALNUT CORNBREAD

1 cup flour- self-rising unbleached, unbleached white or spelt
1 cup stoneground cornmeal
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder* - eliminate if using self-rising flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
3 tablespoons non-hydrogenated margarine
2 tablespoons brown sugar or sucanat
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1/3 cup real maple syrup
¾ cup buttermilk, apple cider or orange juice
1 cup chopped pecans or walnuts
¼ teaspoon real vanilla
1 orange, zest only
½ cup or more, cranberries, optional
½ cup roasted corn, optional


Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Combine the dry ingredients: flour, cornmeal, salt, baking soda and baking powder. Stir together the margarine and brown sugar. Add eggs. Stir to combine. Stir in the maple syrup and either the buttermilk, cider or orange juice. Add the flour mixture to the wet ingredients. Fold in the nuts and berries, if using. Mix well but don’t overmix. Pour into a prepared loaf pan or a silicone loaf pan. Place on a baking sheet. Bake on middle shelf 45-50 minutes or until a knife in the center comes out clean.

* make your own baking powder: 1 teaspoon cream of tartar to ½ teaspoon baking soda.

BALLOTINE OF TURKEY WITH SAUSAGE, CHESTNUTS, PISTACHIOS & SAGE

1 - 12 to 14 pound fresh Turkey, deboned
1 pound pork or turkey sausage, out of casing
fennel seeds
2-3 cloves garlic, crushed
2 egg whites
2-3 tablespoons poultry seasoning
2-3 stalks celery, medium chop
1 yellow onion, medium chop
1 cup breadcrumbs
½ cup shelled pistachio nuts
6-7 whole peeled chestnuts (from jar)
fresh sage leaves

I deboned this turkey myself. I practiced first on deboning a chicken. The turkey was a bit more difficult since it has lots of sinew that holds the flesh to the bone. But it wasn't hard to do. It helped to watch a DVD of the master, Jacques Pepin, deboning a chicken. He says you should be able to do it in ten minutes. Good luck. It's worth trying to do.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees

Stufing: Saute the celery and onions, poultry seasoning, garlic, salt and pepper until translucent but not brown, about 15 minutes. Set aside to cool. In a bowl put the sausage meat, bread crumbs, beaten egg whites, pistachios, salt and pepper, chopped sage leaves; add the sautéed mixture and combine well. Cover and refrigerate until ready to stuff the turkey.

(Alternately, lightly sauté all the stuffing ingredients together, except the egg whites, cool and mix in the beaten whites. Then hold in a cool place.)

Lay the turkey breast skin side down on a work surface. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place sage leaves underneath the skin. Place the stuffing in the middle and spread some out to the sides. Place the chestnuts down the center in a row. Roll it up by placing one side then the other towards the center. Tie it together with butcher’s twine. Place sprigs of sage on the top and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Brush on olive oil. Place the rolled turkey on a well-oiled rack in a roasting pan. Baste with dry white wine poured over. Then baste about every 20 minutes. Roast until the internal temperature reaches 160-165 degrees - about 2-1/2-3 hours. Take out and let rest in a platter about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the gravy:

Broth ingredients:
Roasted turkey bones
Giblets
2 large carrots, cut in chunks
3 celery stalks, cut in chunks
1 onion, studded with 5-6 cloves
2-3 bay leaves
parsley stems
green parts of leeks
sage stems
6-7 whole peppercorns
2 cups white wine

Put the bones and giblets in a pot then add enough water to cover by about 2 fingers. Bring to a boil; then skim. Add the vegetables and wine, bring to a boil again; then simmer. Let simmer for several hours, covered. Can leave overnight and bring to a boil and simmer again in the morning. Strain well and put the broth into a clean sauce pan. Keep warm.

Gravy:

Take the roasting pan and remove all but about 2 tablespoons of fat. Place over two top burners and pour in about a cup of white wine. Heat and scrape the cooked bits from the bottom of the pan. Add about a ¼ cup of Wondra flour and stir to dissolve and thicken. Add the strained broth by the cupful until the desired quantity and thickness is reached. Strain and put into a gravy server.

Remove the strings from the turkey roll and slice in large slices about one-inch thick. Place on a platter. Nap with some of the gravy and decorate the platter with greens, grapes, and whatever you fancy.

Serve room temperature with the hot gravy.

SWEET POTATO OR YAM PUREE WITH COCONUT & MAPLE SYRUP

8 large sweet potatoes, mixed varieties are okay, white and orange
1 can coconut milk, don’t shake
1 cup maple syrup
nutmeg
cinnamon, optional
sea salt

Preheat oven 400 degrees

Peel and cut the potatoes into cubes. Boil some water, add about a tablespoon of salt and the potatoes. Boil about 15 minutes or until fork tender. Drain. Cool. Put through a ricer to puree. Add the coconut fat that sits on the top of the can and stir well, add the coconut milk and maple syrup. Grate a little fresh nutmeg into the mixture. Put into a gratin dish and sprinkle some cinnamon on top.

Bake about 20 minutes until heated through. Serve hot.

POTATO & MUSHROOM GRATIN

4 Portabello mushrooms, stems and outer peel removed
1 pound Cremini mushrooms, stems removed
½ ounce dried mushrooms
8 potatoes - russets or Yukon gold
2 teaspoons dried thyme
3-4 ounces Blue Cheese
2-1/2 cups heavy cream, room temperature
2 Tablespoons olive oil
2 Tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
½ ounce Parmigiano cheese, grated
Wondra flour
Breadcrumbs

Preheat oven to 400 degrees

1. Put the dried mushrooms into a small bowl with boiling water and let sit to rehydrate, then drain and chop them. Clean the Portabello and Cremini mushrooms and slice them. In a frying pan, heat the olive oil and add the mushrooms to sauté until their liquid is gone.

2. Peel, then thin slice the potatoes using a mandoline. Place them in water to cover.

3. Prepare a gratin dish by smearing a little of the butter inside. Layer one third of the potatoes on the bottom, sprinkle with some Wondra flour, small pieces of blue cheese and butter, salt and pepper, dried thyme, and half the mushrooms; then repeat and top with a layer of potatoes. Pour the cream mixture on top. Sprinkle with parmigiano and cover with breadcrumbs and a few more small pieces of butter.

Bake about 40-50 minutes. Serve hot.

TOMATO TAPENADE

(adapted from Silver Palate cookbook)

1-8 ounce jar sundried tomatoes in oil, drained and reserve oil
4 teaspoons garlic, finely chopped
1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and drained
2-3 teaspoons lemon juice
12 anchovies, drained - optional
sea salt
black pepper
3-4 tablespoons parsley

Put all the ingredients except the parsley into a food processor and add about
4 tablespoons of the sundried tomato oil. Pulse until well chopped. Scrap down as necessary. Put into a crock and refrigerate at least one hour. Serve room temperature.
Garnish with parsley.

SALMON MOUSSE

1 teaspoon unflavored gelatin*
4 ounces smoked salmon, roughly chopped
1 cup sour cream
¼ cup cream cheese
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1-2 tablespoons finely grated onion
1 tablespoon drained and rinsed capers
2-3 dashes Tabasco
fresh dill, optional

Sprinkle the gelatin over 3 tablespoons of warm water in a bowl; stir to soften. Keep out a few pieces of the smoked salmon. Put everything else into a food processor and process to combine. Stir in the reserved smoked salmon pieces. Pour into a small bowls, ramekins or a pate mold.
Cover with plastic wrap without touching the mousse. Refrigerate to chill and firm for about 2 hours and up to overnight.

*from a ¼ ounce envelope

www.lohud.com/rocklandmag
Go to this address to see the online version of the article entitled, Have Pots Will Travel.

To enlarge the image click over it a couple of times and it will get larger.
Rockland Magazine Article November 2006
This article arrived today November 8, 2006. It is featured both in Rockland Magazine and Westchester Magazine; they are published by the Journal News. The story includes several other Personal Chefs. There is an error; the Aga heater. Please read this as Aga cooker. Otherwise, it was great fun cooking for this new journalist in his mother's home kitchen on an electric cooktop. My pan kept sliding around on the glass top causing a bit of hilarity. Mom came home and was quite gracious about this invasion of her kitchen. I understand that the entire family enjoyed the meals. The rice mentioned in the article was Jasmine Coconut Rice made with fresh coconut and coconut milk.

I've got to get ready now for a 10-person dinner party for tomorrow night. Salmon with a Potato Crust on a bed of Leeks in Champagne Vinaigrette is the main dish. Plus, by special request, Apple Pie cooked on the AGA topped with some Dulce de Leche. PS

TOMATO CHUTNEY

Phyllis Segura copyright 2006

4-5 pounds of ripe summer tomatoes, heirloom variety preferred, peeled, seeded and roughly chopped
Mexican cinnamon
Cumin seeds, coriander seeds, cloves, yellow mustard seed, whole cardamom, ginger,
1 inch piece fresh ginger, grated
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
small leek, chopped
1 cup white sugar
¾ cup Moscovado sugar
1 cup apple cider vinegar
golden raisins
red chili peppers
tamarind concentrate
lemon juice
sea salt
black pepper
grapeseed or canola oil or ghee

Grind the spices and sauté them in oil or ghee, add the leek, garlic, grated ginger. Add the tomatoes, hen add the sugars and vinegar and a pinch of paprika. Simmer slowly until thick. Stir occasionally. Add the raisins, a couple of red pepper pods, pinch of curry powder, some whole mustard seeds, a chunk of ginger, some chopped sundried tomatoes, a curry leaf or two, and some bay leaves. Salt and Pepper.

In the Aga, bring the ingredients to a boil over the Boiling Plate then place, uncovered in the Simmering oven.

Add a teaspoon of tamarind concentrate and cook down until thick. Mash the tomatoes as you go. Taste. Correct the seasoning.

It isn’t ready until most of the tomatoes and other ingredients have dissolved in the sauce. It should be a little bit chunky. The mixture should be quite thick. Let cool and put into clean jars, add a little lemon juice, then refrigerate. It’s ready after about a day or two. You can eat it right away but it is really better after resting for that amount of time.

JASMINE RICE PILAF WITH PISTACHIOS, DRIED CRANBERRIES,
AND CARAMELIZED RED ONIONS

Phyllis Segura copyright 2006

Jasmine Rice
Fresh Turmeric, grated – about the length of half your pinky finger
Shelled Pistachio nuts,toasted
Dried Cranberries
Sea salt
Water

5 or 6 Red Onions
vegetable oil or olive oil
sugar


Thin slice the onions and saute slowly in a small quantity of the oil. Sprinkle with a little sugar and salt and continue to cook until slightly browned and caramelized. Put aside.

Measure the rice. Use the recommended quantity of rice to water; probably 2 to 1.

Grate the fresh turmeric and add to the rice and water with a pinch or two of sea salt.

Bring to a boil on the boiling plate. Then put into the Simmering oven for about 20 minutes. Take out and stir in the pistachios and dried cranberries. Put back in the oven to steam for another 5-10 minutes. Take out and put into a serving dish. Toss in the caramelized onions with some additional salt, if needed, or put them on top of the dish.

CHICKEN DRUMSTICKS WITH MAPLE-RUM GLAZE

Phyllis Segura copyright 2006

Mix together Maple syrup, Apple Cider Vinegar, Dark Rum, Soy Sauce, freshly grated ginger and freshly chopped garlic. Boil together until slightly thickened.

Bake chicken at 325 degrees for about 20 minutes. Then pour the glaze over and bake about another 20 minutes or until glaze is browned and golden. Turn over a few times to brown on all sides. Be careful to not let it burn.

Garnish with chopped green onions.

AUTUMN CAPONATA

Phyllis Segura copyright 2006


2 onion
3⁄4 cup olive oil
1 can tomato puree
1⁄2 cup dry red wine
1⁄2 cup sugar
2 butternut squash
3/4 cup balsamic vinegar
1 head celery
1⁄2 pound pitted green olives
1-1-1/2 oz. capers
1⁄2 cup parsley, chopped
1⁄4-1/2 cup pine nuts
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Saute sliced and quartered onion in olive oil. Add puree, wine, sugar. Simmer 30 minutes. (For the Aga: saute on the simmering plate then put into the baking oven.)

Peel, seed and dice the squash. Stir vinegar into the tomato sauce. Add the squash. Season.

Cut celery and remove the strings. (Peel like peeling a carrot.) Cut into a large dice. Blanch in boiling water then drain and dip into ice water and add to the mixture.

(For the Aga: put back into the baking oven for about 1⁄2 hour or the simmering oven for about an hour or until the squash is soft.)

Chop olives. Add capers, parsley, olives, pine nuts for final five minutes. (For the Aga: put into the Simmering oven for 5 minutes to 1 hour.)

Let cool. Better the next day. Serve with additional salt and pepper and a drizzle of very good olive oil.

Good as a starter or side dish.

STUFFED BABY PEPPERS

adapted from AGA magazine, Spring 2006

8 red, yellow or orange Baby Peppers
2 large potatoes, boiled and mashed
3 oz. provolone cheese, cut into very small cubes
4T freshly grated Parmigiano cheese
1 egg
3T chives, finely cut
(2 cloves garlic, finely chopped, optional)
olive oil
sea salt and pepper

Remove the stalks from the peppers and reserve. With a small, sharp knife, remove the white membrane and seeds from inside the peppers taking care not to tear the flesh.

Mix together the mashed potatoes, provolone, Parmigiano, egg, chives, the garlic, if you are using it, and some salt and pepper.

Using a small teaspoon, fill the peppers three-quarters full with the mixture; the stuffing will puff up and if too full will ooze out the top. Put the stalks back in place on top. Pack the peppers tightly into an ovenproof dish, drizzle with olive oil and bake for about 30minutes, until tender.

On the Aga: Cook on the grid shelf set on the floor of the Roasting oven. If they start to brown too quickly, slide in the cold plain shelf on the second runners down.

Serve hot or cold.

Use a decorative pan to cook the peppers so that you can also serve them in it.

*HALIBUT BATHED IN A POMEGRANATE BUTTER SAUCE*****

Phyllis Segura copyright 2006

I created this dish for an event for a group from the New York Women's Culinary Alliance. It is one of those unusual but magical combinations. It sounds heavy but the chemistry is: if you poach fish covered in a fat it doesn't penetrate the fish. I don't know why or how this works but this fish is not greasy. The lightness and the taste is unusual.

Fresh Halibut fillets, cut into serving sized pieces, no skin
Clarified Butter, from 2 pounds of unsalted butter, or Ghee
8 oz.or more of small capers
1-3 T Asian Fish Sauce ( Nam pla)
Pomegranate Molasses
2 whole pomegranates, seeds only


Boil the clarified butter and add the capers and the fish sauce, to taste. Be careful not to brown the butter but to have it boiling.

Place the halibut pieces in a pan to fit. Place the pan on the top runners in the Roasting oven for about 2 minutes or until the fish begins to turn opaque.

Take out the fish and pour the butter over it to cover the fish completely.

Roast another 5 minutes or so and take out. Remove the fish and capers to a warm platter with a fish spatula. Leave the butter in the pan.

Drizzle with Pomegranate Molasses. Toss the pomegranates seeds over decoratively.

Eat immediately.

(It might be possible to save the butter in a container in the freezer for future use in the same dish. But this has not been tested.)

PUREED CRANBERRY BEANS

These autumn harvest beans are also called BORLOTTI in Italian.

Look for the fresh mottled red and white marbled pods. Pop them out of their shells, cover with salted water and several cloves of peeled garlic. (Hazan adds bay and sage leaves and a potato.) Bring to a boil then simmer until the beans are soft. The beans turn a creamy grayish color, rather like chestnuts. (You can ask how long to cook them but I can't be precise. I can only tell you that fresh beans cook a lot faster than dry ones.) When they are tender drain and puree them in a food processor. Add some olive oil,and salt and pepper. Spoon into a dish and eat with bread or vegetables. I used some the other day in tuna salad instead of mayonnaise.

Taste of the AGA

On October 19th I will be presenting a program for the NYWCA (New York Women's Culinary Alliance) which is titled "A Tour and a Tasting of the Aga Cooker". It is being underwritten by Domain Furniture. The event will be held at the Aga Studio at Grange Furniture, 200 Lexington Avenue, 2nd Floor, from 6 to 8pm.

In 2000 the Aga was listed as one of the top three design icons of the 20th Century along with the coke bottle and the VW beetle. The Aga cooker is a lifestyle and lasts a lifetime. It is a cast iron heat accumulator with a unique temperature regulation system that continually transfers the heat to the ovens and hotplates at precise pre-set levels, so the Aga is always ready to cook when you are. The Aga was invented by Dr. Gustaf Dalen, recipient of a Nobel Prize for Physics in 1912.

Proceeds will be donated by Domain to Gilda's Club in keeping with Breast Cancer Awareness month.

The event is open to non-members of the alliance and costs $20. A reservation is required and attendance is limited to 25. Go to www.nywca.org and click on Programs, the A Tour and a Tasting of the Aga Cooker and follow the directions to register. It's easy. But hurry because it is almost sold-out.




Menu for A Tour and a Tasting of the Aga Cooker

Hors d’oeuvres:
Pesto Pancakes with sour cream, smoked fish, chives
Grilled Brie sandwiches with tomato chutney
Spiced nuts
Autumn Caponata

Buffet:
Halibut bathed in a Pomegranate Butter Sauce
Chicken drumsticks roasted with a Maple-Rum Glaze
Small baby peppers stuffed with potatoes and provolone
Jasmine rice pilaf with pistachios, currants, and caramelized onions

Dessert:
Apple, cheddar and almond Galettes
Grape, brie and walnut Galettes
Magic Bars

Pizza Judge

On Columbus Day, October 9th, from 1pm to 4pm I was one of the judges for the 2nd Annual Rockland Tasty N'Healthy Pizza Contest. Sixty pizzas competed and I don't know how many different restaurants. The Pizza Contest is sponsored by the Rockland County Department of Health. It was held in the Nanuet Mall in Banchetto Feast Restaurant.

The other judges were: Charles Calotta from the Sons of Italy; Claudette Clark a Dietician at Nyack Hospital; Rossano Giannini, restaurateur; Dianne Haltner, Nutritionist with the Cornell Extension; Diane Lombardi, Dietician.

We got there at around 12:30pm and the event began at 1:00pm. The judges were lined up at a table with their backs to the mall entrance. There must have been a lot of publicity for free pizza because the place was packed with noisy throngs!

I don't know about the other judges but I only tasted the smallest morsel of each pizza. Sometimes, when the toppings looked good, I ate a bit more of that. Just imagine tasting 60 pizzas... We didn't finish the tasting until after 4:30pm with only one brief break.

There were several categories: Healthiest Pizza, Best Thin Crust, Best Traditional Pizza, Most Creative, People's Choice and Grand Prize for overall best.

There was one pizza with bananas and blueberries, another with french fried potatoes, and just one with seafood but it also had pasta on it. There were several plain tomato pizzas that had cold salad piled on top of them; this was not my favorite. The so-called traditional pizza was the type with an orangy mix of tomato and cheese, also not my personal favorite. I actually did like some of them, especially the whole wheat thin crust ones. And there was one salad one that stood out with a plain thin crust on the bottom and arugula layered on top that was covered all over with good slices of tomatoes. I hope that got a prize. But mostly I was inspired to come up with something that was closer to my ideal 'healthy' pizza. That's later.

The winners were: Sal's in Spring Valley for the Healthiest Topping; Basilico on Route 202 in Pomona for the Best Thin Crust Pizza; Franco's in Nanuet for the best Traditional Pizza; Dough Boys in Stony Point for the Most Creative Pizza; People's Choice with 475 votes out of 2968 went to Rocco's in New City; and the Grand Prize went to
Di Maria's in Valley Cottage.

I don't think I will eat another piece of pizza for a loooong time.

PRICES PRICES QUESTIONS QUESTIONS

To find out prices for Cooking on the River services and to ask me any questions
do either of the following:

email me at: info@cookingontheriver.com
OR

Click on Comments on this blog and send me a message

Either way I will receive it and send you a reply. Phyllis

PICKLES

Peter Piper Picked a Pack of Pickles
How Many Pickles Did Peter Piper Pick


Oh, yeah... It's August. The new Kirby cucumbers are here. The other day I put up a few jars of pickles with my own spice mix that I thought I would share with you:

Pickles
You will need to buy or grow Kirby cucumbers picked when they are small and not wrinkled. Select some of equal size that will fit nicely into quart jars. Boil those jars and lids. I am going to assume you know about canning and I will not go into that here.

For about 12 pickles: Mix together, 2 sliced garlic cloves, 1T whole coriander, 1T celery seeds, 1T dill seeds, 1T fennel seeds, 1tsp whole Allspice, 1tsp cloves, 1tsp black peppercorns, 1tsp juniper berries, 3 bay leaves, a couple of red pepper pods, fennel or dill flowering tops, 1/4tsp powdered turmeric. Add about 1-1/2 cups of vinegar of your choice, I have made flavored vinegars in the past so I used an allium flavored one, add about 1/2 cup (more or less) organic sugar, some salt. Boil all the seeds and spices together with the liquids and add about a cup of water. (You can put a spoon in and taste it now to see if you want to change the salt to sugar to vinegar to water ratio.)

Put the cucumbers into the jars and pour the hot liquid over them. If there isn't enough liquid to come to the top of the jar just add some more boiled water. Cover loosely with the lids (If you intend to keep the pickles more than a couple of weeks then go through the canning process and boil the jars at this point.) and let sit for 1 hour to 24 hours or more,(taste) then refrigerate.

A tip: I cut one pickle into quarters and put it near the top of the jar so if I want to see how they taste I can pick it out with a fork, rinse it off gently, and taste to see if I want to continue the pickling process longer.

If you don't like that slightly yellowish color that is imparted to the pickles then eliminate the turmeric.

Let me know how it goes! Email me at: info@cookingontheriver.com

AVAILABILITY ALERT

This is an alert to all my present past and future clients. I am not a caterer. I have to cook the food in your home, or office, or front lawn, anywhere, but I can not do it in my kitchen. I also need to be booked usually several weeks in advance due to my busy schedule of activities. Sometimes something falls through and I can do something for you on not a lot of notice, but tht is rare. If you know of a commercial kitchen that is low cost, let me know and I will use it to prepare your food. Most commercial kitchens I know of charge at least $25 per hour and I have to extend those charges to you. I am posting this for obvious reasons: I keep getting asked to cater, as in deliver food. Can't do it. Sorry.

RICE IS NICE NOT

This just in:

USDA ANNOUNCES U.S. RICE SUPPLY HAS BEEN CONTAMINATED
USDA Secretary Mike Johanns has announced that domestic and export stocks of long grain rice has been contaminated by a genetically engineered variety of rice that is not approved for human consumption. Johanns said that the contamination was admitted to be the fault of Bayer Corporation, but the USDA doesn't know how widespread the contamination is. According to Johanns the biotech rice poses no health risks, but could damage the U.S. $1 billion rice export market, since many nations refuse to import genetically engineered rice. Japan has already announced a ban on long grain rice imports from the US. Last year, Japan and the EU banned US corn imports as a result of yet another GE contamination scandal.
Learn more: http://www.organicconsumers.org/2006/article_1584.cfm

DINNER ANYONE?

You might have noticed that I haven't had much time (goodness, since April) to post anything on this blog.

My apologies. I get distracted.

These days I have pretty much eliminated making 'meals for the week in advance' and I am just doing dinner parties.

I like creating special menus for special meals more than anything. I also like doing classes that are also dinner parties. Most people I have come across could use some knife skills honed. Or, a special lesson in a distinct cuisine: Southwestern, Mediterranean, French, Italian, or a food that is especially liked. I recently had a client who loved beets. She wanted to do an entire meal for eight people with beets in every course. Send me an email and I'll send you the menu.

Autumn is coming and I would like to do an Apple Cider dinner party. Any takers?

BEETS, BEANS AND BERRIES


Now that the vegetables and fruits are fresh, eat ‘em while you can. Sashay over to the Farmers Market and get some beets (or dig them out of your garden) - wash them well, trim the ends and plop them into some boiling water until fork tender. Drain and cool by running cold water over them, then peel. The peel slips right off. Slice into rounds. Slice up some onion rings, chopped parsley, add some olives, sugar, oil and vinegar, salt and pepper then whisk together. Pour over the beets and let them stand a couple of hours, refrigerated.

Fresh cranberry beans are in season. They’re the ones with the red and white mottled shells. Pop them out and boil in slightly salted water until soft. Drain, add chopped red onion, parsley, garlic, balsamic vinegar, a good olive oil, salt and pepper, toss well. Eat warm or cold.

Get some mixed berries. You can freeze them for eating in the winter. In fact freeze almost everything, except tomatoes. Freeze those cranberry beans too. Blanch briefly in water. Cool in ice water and put into freezer bags. You will be going to the Farmer’s Market in your freezer all winter long! Slow cook everything in the winter.

Take those beans and add some sauteed chopped or sliced garlic, chop up some onion, salt and pepper, saute in some tomato paste. Add the beans, a tablespoon or two of dijon mustard, a splash of dark molasses for sweetness, and liquid. Water or beer or even a fruit juice - give it a try. Slow cook after first bringing it all to a boil.
Check it after about 45 minutes to see if more liquid is needed. Don't let it dry out.

Looks like I have not been posting anything here since April. In June I started selling AGA ovens out of Hartsdale. I am still available for dinner parties but only if scheduled in advance as my schedule is tight these days.